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po345,p1122,p1612,po113,po223,po123,u1001.po462,po345,po345,po345

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All vehicles in the US after 1996 have to be "OBD2" compliant ODB stands for On Board Diagnostics. The check engine light is reacting to an error code set in the vehicles computer.

Some autoparts stores will read your error code. Others won't. Some have a "loan a tool" program will lend you the tool to read the code. The tool is an ODB2 Scan tool and they come with a variety of features (and in a variety of prices). From about $50 to several hundred. Any DIY'r should have have one, evenm if just a cheap one.

Once you have the error code, you have to interpret it. Some tools have it built in, but you can find dozens of websites that will interpret (You can just google the code itself.) The interpreation It may or may not tell you the actual problem. It may just indicate a sensor and it's up to you to determine if the sensor is bad or some other cause is causing a problem that the sensor is sensing. The code interpretation is usually a good place to start, and sometime dead on the problem..

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I have the same thing wrong with my 2002 Nissan and I wonder if you ever had any power loss at all when you drove it? It may have felt like it was going to stall but didn't or you couldn't get it to go over 30 mph? The engine light can indicate that the gas cap is loose at one time, the sensor goes on, but when you tighten the cap the check engine light remains lit until it is cleared by a mechanic.

I borrowed the ODB2 tool from Pep Boys and got the error code which was pretty vague, p1122, which indicated a manfunctioning in the control fuel air metering. I had several fixes done but the light came on after one year of its last "fix". Now I cannot drive it at all.

It could be safe to drive as long as you don't have loss of power, smoke, noise and extreme reduction in gas mileage.

Let me know what you find out

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